Chateau Marquis de Terme 德达侯爵四级庄评测

德达侯爵庄园(Chateau Marquis de Terme)位于法国波尔多梅多克(Medoc)产区著名的玛歌(Margaux)产酒村,酒庄在1855分级(1855 Classification)中被评为四级庄。

德达侯爵庄园的历史最早可追溯至15世纪,而这座庄园的名称则诞生于1762年,当时一位名叫弗朗索瓦·佩基兰(Francois de Peguilhan)的贵族娶妻成婚,而德达侯爵庄园也作为嫁妆跟随妻子一同入门,这位贵族便是德达侯爵(Marquis de Terme),酒庄的名字也因他而来。此外,在德达侯爵庄园的发展史上还有另一个重要家族——福列哈(Feuillerat)家族,此家族掌管酒庄120几年,在此过程中,该家族成员一直致力于将酒庄打造成卓越的名庄,最终也成功使得酒庄荣登1855列级庄行列。

1935年,桑涅克劳(Seneclauze)家族成为了庄园的新主人,目前酒庄管理者仍为此家族成员,该家族开启了德达侯爵庄园的现代发展之路。此外,在2009年,在波尔多酒业巨擘红酒之父 贝尔纳·玛格雷(Bernard Magrez)效劳多时的卢多维奇·大卫(Ludovic David)成为了德达侯爵庄园总经理。David有着丰富葡萄酒酿造、葡萄园管理以及集团经营的经验,他的加入为酒庄带来了技术、葡萄栽培以及设备等方面的革新,进一步促进了葡萄酒品质的提升。

德达侯爵庄园的葡萄园占地39.5公顷,园内土壤类型主要为玛歌产区典型的砾石土,由石英和石英岩构成,土层深度达4米以上,这种土壤非常适合种植赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)。此外,相比产区内其他酒庄来说,德达侯爵庄园葡萄园内土层深处的黏土含量更是多一些,因而也十分适合种植梅洛(Merlot)。目前,葡萄园内种有60%的赤霞珠,33%的梅洛以及7%的小维多(Petit Verdot),种植密度为10,000株/公顷,葡萄树的平均树龄为35年。酒庄对葡萄园进行分地块的管理,管理过程中始终注重保护生态平衡。

德达侯爵庄园的葡萄全部为手工采摘,且只有经过严格筛选后的葡萄才能进入后续酿酒环节。在酿造过程中,酒庄会使用重力来运输葡萄汁液,不采用泵送。葡萄汁会被置于混凝土罐、不锈钢罐或温控橡木桶中进行发酵,发酵后的酒液会被转入法国橡木桶中熟成16-18个月(其中新桶比例为50%)。

目前,德达侯爵庄园主要出产五款红葡萄酒,其中正牌酒——德达侯爵庄园红葡萄酒(Chateau Marquis de Terme, Margaux, France)的品质尤为优异。这款酒兼具力量与优雅感,酒体饱满,单宁充沛且十分耐嚼,伴有丰富的水果风味,结构平衡,多次获得各项葡萄酒大赛以及诸多权威酒评杂志以及酒评家的高分好评。

Unique, timeless and unbeatable, he is the first representative and the keystone of the estate. This is why it receives the greatest attention in its preparation. After harvests are sorted in the vines and then carefully on the table, the vinification is piecemeal and little interventionist. The alcoholic fermentation takes place in concrete vats and temperature-controlled stainless steel vats before aging for 16 to 18 months in oak barrels, for a production of around 80,000 bottles annually.

Château Marquis de Terme fully expresses its typical gravel terroir through its blend of a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. The vineyard is planted on a historic gravelly terroir, in the heart of the Margaux appellation. Precision, technique and new materials bring more purity to the wines. Density and freshness reveal silky notes with elegantly worked tannins, specific to the wines of Marquis de Terme.

The history of Château Marquis de Terme began in 1762, when Mademoiselle Ledoulx d'Emplet brought the estate as a dowry to François de Peguilhan, the Marquis of Terme. The property has belonged to the Sénéclauze family since 1935. The 1762 cuvée is the expression of this timelessness. It is thought to be the representation of the personality and the typicality of its terroir. The 26 plots of the vineyard are included in the composition of the cuvée. The 1762 cuvée has a deep color with purple reflections. Rich bouquet, with floral, blackberry, dark chocolate, bitter orange and liquorice notes. The mouth is full, round and creamy. We find the flavors of small black fruits on a mocha finish.

To offer a new tasting experience, it is sometimes important to inject new blood. Since 2012, Château Marquis de Terme has been producing a unique wine, a great Margaux fermented in barrels and aged in vats. What makes the originality of this wine is its elaboration against the age-old customs of the Châteaux du Médoc. After fermentation for 2 months in barrels, this wine from carefully selected plots is aged in ovoid concrete vats and stainless steel vats for almost a year. The barrel gives the wine a subtly woody side that does not alter the round and fruity side provided by aging in egg-shaped vats. Creative and free wine, it leaves room for experimentation in blending and aging for a tasting that will seduce adventurers at heart.

Located in the heart of the Esterel massif, a stone's throw from Fréjus, the vineyard makes its way through the pine forest and finds its character between the imprint of volcanic rocks and the influence of the Mediterranean basin.On the strength of its environmental commitment through ever more natural farming practices, Château Marquis de Terme's escapade in Provence naturally oriented itself towards the signature of a certified organic rosé.The eastern end of the Côtes de Provence appellation is characterized by a specific geology and climate. Its soil but also its inscription in history established the basis of the recognition in 2005 of the complementary geographical denomination Fréjus.

今日有机会试到正牌2017,德达侯爵是玛歌4级庄,此酒款用上35年树龄葡萄,葡萄比例 62% Cabernet Sauvignon、32% Merlot及6% Petit Verdot。16过月木桶陈熟,当中 50%为新桶。James Suckling 同Vinous 也评上93分。

抖气一个钟后试饮,香气带着红黑果、杂莓、李子等,也有些野玫瑰的花香气息,比较特别,未算有很多复杂香气,相信跟抖气时间有关,但都已很不错。入口能感受到血橙、黑樱桃、Toasty、也有一些橡木、皮革及石墨感,单宁较紧致,酸度适中、收结不错。

抖气两个半钟左右再试,味道变得更多味,如西莓、烘烤、Mocha等,整体变得较为丝滑顺喉。个人认为2017年的正牌德达侯爵还是相对较新,大约可以再陈熟多5-10年才饮较好。

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